1. Re-prime waste end:
   
   Fill bowl to below rim with bucket or other source.
   
   Go to pump location and gently loosen pipe plug (“PRIMING”) on waste end of pump.
   
   Allow any trapped air to escape then re-tighten.
   
   Return to bathroom and press flush switch.
   
   If bowl does not empty normally, return to pump location.



2. Test pump independently:
   
   Remove 1” discharge hose from top of pump.
   
   Obtain a short piece of this hose material long enough to reach a bucket or the bilge.
   
   Install the short hose then give a flush command to unit.
   
   If it flushes normally, problem is a blockage or restriction in plumbing somewhere in the boat.
   
   If it still does not pump correctly there is a fault in the pump.
   
   Next loosen and remove large waste hose from pump. Breaking the pump free from the hose can be difficult but there is no easy way. Use thin screwdrivers to start the hose separation. It may be necessary to demount the pump (four 1/4-20 nuts) and pull pump out of the hose, sometimes with a twisting motion to break that last 30%. There is usually lots of slack in smaller hoses and electrical cables.
   
   Just look into the big hole for foreign material possibly wrapped around the T-cutter or rotor. It could be disposable cleaning rags, dental floss or any fibrous material.
   
   Occasionally, on older installations, you can find thick calcium deposits inside the pump nose and the large hose from the toilet. These deposits can be shockingly thick, sometimes over 75% of the nominal opening. In such cases the pump nose and incoming hose must be carefully cleaned. Discharge hoses and fittings would also be suspect.
   
   If no foreign material is visible, problem is likely wear or deterioration of rubber stator or less commonly the brass rotor. In this case, see the procedure for rotor/stator/seal replacement. A new stator or other parts may be required, based on inspection of parts on further disassembly.

1. Turn off power to pump
2. Release pressure from water system by opening a tap or hose bib
3. Locate ‘Schrader’ valve fitting on the opposite end of the tank from pipe fittings
4. Remove cap and measure pressure with standard tire gauge
5. Pressure should be about 15 PSI
6. If too low, add air with hand pump or compressed air source
7. Turn pump power on and run water to test performance

1. When pump nose is removed and you are ready to unscrew the rotor…



2. Remove one of two short ¼-20 hex bolts that secure solenoid to pump case



3. Insert the small screwdriver into the threaded hole to contact the motor armature



4. Apply moderate pressure to lock armature while unscrewing rotor. This contact is harmless to the motor armature.



5. It is not necessary to lock motor while reinstalling the rotor

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Div. Pro-Cav Specialists, Inc.
281 SW 33rd Street
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33315
Tel: 954-525-5513
Fax: 954-525-6415
Toll Free: 800-824-1186
mail@razmarinepumps.com